Remember that market where I bought the delicious sausage sandwich? I also bought an awe-inspiringly good coconut tart that was so good I figured that it deserved its own post.
I bought it from Pastelarias Roma, a dessert vendor in the market. I like coconut desserts a lot, so I was probably in the tank for this one right from the get-go, but man this was good. It was kind of like a cross between a coconut macaroon and a coconut cream pie; it was very macaroon-like, particularly the crisp exterior, but it was also a little bit syrupy and creamy, with a mild custardy flavour. It was contained by a crust that was kind of like an ice cream cone, but thinner and crispier.
There are a few things that I’m going to be dreaming about when this trip is over — that, I’m pretty confident, is going to be one of them.
So, here’s a fact: Lisbon is an extremely hilly city. Here’s another fact: those hills are jerks.
At first it’s like, “wow cool, look at all of that interesting hilly architecture! It really gives the city character! I wonder how they build everything on a slant like that!” Then you walk up your fifth or six ultra-steep incline of the day with the scorchingly hot Portuguese sun being as unforgiving as always and it’s more like “Hey hill? You’re a stupid jerk and you have a stupid jerk face and I hope you die.”
Check out some more stupid jerk hills after the jump.
I spoke the other day about the joys of random discovery; you can add this to the supporting documentation for that argument.
I was wandering around the other day and I saw an impressive-looking statue of a man on a horse (who turns out to be King John I, a Portuguese king from the 1300s). I thought to myself, I should probably photograph that, because like all tourists I am drawn to elaborate statues like a moth to a flame.
It turned out there was some kind of makeshift market behind the statue called Mercado da Baixa, and it included this place:
I mean, look at that. It’s a griddle full of grease and random sausages. If you can say no to that, clearly you are a stronger man than I. I took one look and knew instantly that I needed those sausages in my life.
Obviously I ordered a sandwich.
The reason some of the sausages look so dark is that the last pieces she crammed into the sandwich were from a morcela sausage, which is a blood sausage. Now, I know the knee-jerk reaction from many people who grew up in North America is that this is gross, but trust me, it is not gross. It has an addictively intense flavour that doesn’t have any of the organ-like notes you might be afraid of, and the texture is almost creamy (again, this sounds weird for a sausage, but trust me: it’s so good).
It was actually the best sausage in the bunch, but the other ones (including chorizo) were quite good too. The bread was a bit overwhelmingly crusty, but it was still a top-shelf sandwich.
I’m currently in Lisbon, and since I’m trying to be frugal and save money wherever I can, I’m staying in an Airbnb. The place is actually really nice, especially for what it costs, but there’s no air conditioning and I straight-up cannot handle it. For context, it’s generally in the high 20s or low 30s here, so it’s hot.
Now, I’m used to pretty aggressive air conditioning at home, which probably doesn’t help, but I figured, hey, how bad could it be? I’ll get used to it.
I want to travel back in time and punch myself in the stomach.
I’m certainly willing to rough it — I have to for an extended trip like this to be financially feasible, but apparently there is a line and that’s where I draw it. I need to fall into the sweet, sweet embrace of climate-controlled air, particularly when I’m trying to go to sleep.
With all of the information available on the internet, it’s very easy to just plan out everything in advance and leave nothing to chance. But sometimes there’s nothing more satisfying than just randomly wandering around and seeing what you find.
Case in point: this bakery that I stumbled across while walking around the city.
It wound up having a pretty amazing egg tart that was probably one of the better versions of that dish that I’ve ever had.
The crust was perfectly flaky with just the right amount of crispiness, and the filling had a really satisfying custardy flavour. With a light dusting of cinnamon on top, it was really something special.