Trani actually makes for a thoroughly delightful day trip from Bari; it’s a quick, cheap train ride away, and it’s extremely scenic.
Octopus sandwich from Rosticceria Lo Sfizio del Borgo Antico
There were several vendors selling octopus sandwiches in the old area of Bari, so I figured I should probably try one. This was totally fine; the octopus was quite tender and tasty, but otherwise none of the flavours here particularly popped, and the bread was so aggressively crusty that it was difficult to bite through.
This might sound odd (or maybe not, if you know me), but this place was the main reason I wanted to come to Bari. It was featured on an episode of Milk Street TV, and they were talking about the focaccia here so reverently that I couldn’t help but want to check it out. So I did!
Carbonara from Pasta a Gogo
Pasta a Gogo serves a handful of pasta dishes that they make fresh — it’s mostly a take-out joint, though they do have a couple of tables outside. The woman behind the counter spoke English fluently, so I asked her what her favourite was, and she answered “carbonara” without even a millisecond of hesitation. So that makes ordering quite easy; carbonara it is! And yeah, she’s not wrong to be enthusiastic about it; it’s ultra-rich and creamy, and the crispy pieces of guanciale are salty, porky, and satisfying.
Yeah, that’s right, I said it — a cemetery is a must-visit. I stand by it!